Buying Your First Home

Post-Closing Checklist

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Post-Closing Checklist

After signing documents and receiving keys, homeownership begins. The first days and weeks reveal hidden maintenance issues, utility quirks, and administrative surprises. A systematic post-closing checklist ensures you handle critical tasks promptly and identify problems before they become expensive.

Key takeaways

Address changes (USPS, voter registration, insurance, credit cards, subscriptions) prevent mail loss and identity confusion.
Utility account transfers must be processed immediately to ensure seamless service and to hold the seller (not you) liable for pre-closing usage.
The first month often reveals deferred maintenance or previous-owner habits (thermostat settings, water pressure issues, appliance quirks) that weren't obvious during inspection.
Critical first-month priorities: change locks, verify insurance coverage, locate shutoffs and panels, and identify any immediate safety hazards.
Keeping detailed records of purchase documents, warranties, and repairs establishes a maintenance log valuable for future sales or insurance claims.

Week 1: Critical tasks

Immediate (Day 1):

Change or rekey locks. The seller and all their agents, contractors, and service people had keys. A licensed locksmith can rekey existing locks (cheaper, 1–2 hours) or replace them entirely (more expensive, more security). Budget $200–$500 for full rekey or replacement. Do this before you leave the property for the first time after closing.

Test all doors and windows. Open and close them to ensure they're functional. Note any that stick, don't lock properly, or have broken seals.

Locate and test critical shutoffs:

Water shut-off (usually in basement, crawl space, or outside wall). You need to know this in case of a burst pipe.
Electrical panel (the breaker box). Take a photo of the panel with breaker labels; if a label is missing, map and label it yourself.
Gas shut-off (if the home has natural gas). This is usually outside the home, near the meter. Know where it is and how to turn it off.
HVAC system thermostat and emergency shut-off.

Notify utilities of ownership transfer. Call water, electric, gas, internet, and any other utilities. Confirm the account is in your name and that you're not responsible for the seller's pre-closing usage. Some utilities have a standard "change of occupancy" process that takes 1–2 days.

Verify homeowners insurance is active. Call your insurance company and confirm the policy is in effect, the property is covered, and the lender received the policy details. You should have a binder (proof of insurance) and an agent contact number.

File a change of address with USPS. Go to usps.com and submit a change-of-address form. This costs $1–$1.25 and redirects mail from the seller's address to yours for 12 months. This is critical: the seller's creditors, utilities, and insurance companies will mail bills and documents to the property. Redirecting mail prevents you from opening someone else's financial statements.

First 3 days:

Secure all important documents. Create a folder or file for:

Closing Disclosure and settlement statement.
Recorded deed.
Mortgage note and deed of trust.
Title insurance policy (owner's and lender's).
Home inspection report.
Appraisal report.
Survey (if provided).
Any warranties or certifications (roof, HVAC, electrical).
Insurance policy and binder.

Store originals in a safe deposit box or home safe. Scan copies and store digitally (cloud backup like Google Drive or Dropbox).

Review all utility bills and account setup. Ensure your name and address are correct on all accounts. Dispute any charges for the seller's pre-closing usage.

Register to vote at your new address. Do this before mail forwarding expires.

Update your address with:

Auto insurance (if your car insurance is based on where you live).
Health insurance.
Employer (HR/payroll).
Banks and credit cards.
Amazon, subscriptions, and online retailers.

This prevents mail loss and ensures important documents reach you. Missing a credit card statement could mean missing a fraudulent charge.

First week:

Photograph and document the property's condition. Take photos of every room, closet, and the exterior. This creates a baseline for insurance claims and dispute resolution. If a pipe bursts in year 3 and you're negotiating with the seller's insurance company, photos show the property's condition at closing.

Test all appliances and systems. Turn on the dishwasher, washing machine, oven, HVAC, and any other appliances. Note any that don't work or make unusual noises. The seller's disclosures should have mentioned these issues, but verify.

Schedule a preliminary walkthrough with a licensed contractor or home inspector. Pay $300–$600 for them to identify any red flags or deferred maintenance you missed. This is valuable if you skipped the inspection contingency or if your inspector missed major issues.

Weeks 2–4: Important tasks

Update vehicle registration and insurance. If you've moved to a new state or county, your auto insurance rates might change. Update your registration address with the DMV.

Locate and review all warranties and manuals. Ask the seller (through your agent or title company) for:

Appliance manuals and warranty documents.
HVAC system documentation and maintenance records.
Roof warranty (if the roof was recently replaced).
Any home system warranties (plumbing, electrical, structural).

These documents are valuable if an appliance fails or you need service records for claims.

Begin a maintenance log. Start a spreadsheet or notebook documenting:

Date purchased.
Purchase price.
Address and property details.
Home systems (roof age, HVAC age, water heater age, etc.).
Any repairs or replacements made.
Maintenance performed.
Costs and contractor information.

This log is invaluable if you're refinancing (lenders want to know what work was done), selling (showing a history of maintenance increases appeal and value), or filing insurance claims (proving you maintained the property).

Contact your mortgage servicer. Some lenders service their own loans; others sell them to third parties. Your servicer is who you'll send payments to. Confirm the servicer's name, payment address, and phone number. Set up online account access and auto-pay to avoid missing payments.

Review escrow account details. Log into your mortgage servicer's website and verify:

Monthly payment amount and due date.
Escrow balance and monthly escrow contribution.
Property taxes and insurance amounts escrowed.

This prevents surprise adjustments later.

Month 1–2: Surprises and adjustments

The furnace won't turn on. You set the thermostat to 72°F, but nothing happens. The seller may have disabled it or left it in an unusual mode. Check if the breaker is off, if the gas is on, or if the system is in "cool only" mode. Call an HVAC technician if you can't diagnose it. Cost: $100–$300 service call.

The water pressure is low. Low water pressure might indicate a clogged aerator (the screen on your faucet) or a failing water main supply. Unscrew the aerator, rinse it, and reinstall. If pressure is still low, it might be a municipal issue (call the water company) or a main line leak (call a plumber).

The toilet runs constantly. A running toilet usually means a failing fill valve or flapper. Kits are $20–$40 at hardware stores; many homeowners can replace these themselves. If not, a plumber charges $150–$300.

Weird smells in the basement. Musty smells suggest moisture or mold. A moldy basement is a health and structural concern. Open windows, run a dehumidifier, and consider a mold remediation specialist ($500–$2,000+). Don't ignore this.

Appliances fail. An old refrigerator, washer, or dryer might fail in the first month after you move in—the stress of moving and temperature changes can trigger failures. Budget $1,000–$3,000 for appliance replacements if you inherit old units.

Pest activity. You notice rodent droppings, ant trails, or termites in the basement. Call a pest control company immediately. This was likely present during inspection but missed. Cost: $300–$800 for initial treatment; long-term contracts $100–$200/month.

The roof leaks. Heavy rains reveal roofing defects. If the inspection didn't identify a leak risk, you might have recourse against the inspector. Contact them immediately. A small leak might be patched ($500–$1,500); a roof replacement is $5,000–$15,000+.

Electrical issues. Outlets stop working, lights flicker, or breakers trip frequently. This might indicate overloaded circuits or wiring issues. Call a licensed electrician. Cost: $150–$400 diagnosis; $500–$2,000+ for repairs.

Plumbing backups or slow drains. If drains are slow throughout the house, the main sewer line might be clogged or broken. A plumber can snake the line ($300–$500) or camera-inspect it ($400–$800 for more detailed diagnosis). If the line is broken, repairs are expensive ($3,000–$25,000+, depending on severity and location).

These surprises are common. Budget $2,000–$5,000 for unexpected repairs in the first year, especially if the home is older than 20 years.

First 90 days: Priority maintenance

Check and replace HVAC filters. HVAC filters should be replaced every 3 months. Dirty filters reduce efficiency and air quality. Cost: $15–$30 per filter.

Have gutters cleaned. If leaves and debris are in gutters, clear them to prevent water damage and pest entry. Cost: $150–$300.

Inspect the roof from the ground. Look for missing shingles, visible decay, or flashing gaps. Don't climb the roof yourself; use binoculars or hire a roofer for a $100–$200 inspection.

Test the sump pump (if applicable). Pour water into the sump pit and verify the pump activates and drains water away from the home.

Verify grading and drainage. Water should slope away from the foundation. If water pools near the home, you might need to improve grading ($500–$2,000).

Inspect caulking around windows and doors. Cracks in caulk allow water intrusion. Recaulk as needed (DIY or contractor).